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	Comments on: More On Understanding Exposure and Working in Manual Mode	</title>
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	<link>https://www.birdsasart-blog.com/baa/2016/07/24/more-on-understanding-exposure-and-working-in-manual-mode/</link>
	<description>The blog of bird photographer Arthur Morris</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Mon, 25 Jul 2016 18:01:26 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>
		By: Tony Zielinski		</title>
		<link>https://www.birdsasart-blog.com/baa/2016/07/24/more-on-understanding-exposure-and-working-in-manual-mode/comment-page-1/#comment-1736641</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Tony Zielinski]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 25 Jul 2016 18:01:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.birdsasart-blog.com/?p=34359#comment-1736641</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Hi Artie,
This was extremely helpful! Thank you for the explanation. 

&lt;font id=comreply&gt;You are most welcome.&lt;/font&gt; 

Long overdue vacation starts Wednesday, and I&#039;m going to practice manual-mode photography for much of my trip.

&lt;font id=comreply&gt;Enjoy and practice!&lt;/font&gt;

The trick, as i see it, was knowing your optimal exposure in the first place.

&lt;font id=comreply&gt;That is true whether you are in Av or Tv or Manual mode... And that is why God invented histograms...&lt;/font&gt;

Using the meter at the side of the viewfinder in manual mode (I never paid attention to that before) will get me most of the way there, and then use the histogram to get whites just below the right edge. 

&lt;font id=comreply&gt;Be sure not to get the WHITEs right to the edge; that will give you WHITEs with RGB values in the high 240s or even the dreaded 250s.&lt;/font&gt;

Taking ISO out of Auto mode allows me to get the EC by adjusting shutter speed and f-stop.

&lt;font id=comreply&gt;Good. You should be setting the ISO depending on the conditions (i.e., the light levels) and the shutter speed that you need. &lt;/font&gt;

Before, I had been switching to Av-mode, using point (sic: spot) metering on a grey spot, memorizing the numbers, switching back to manual, dialing them in, then wondering where the bird went. :)

&lt;font id=comreply&gt;Even if the bird did not fly that is a bad approach as it will only give you a good exposure for a middle toned subject... I would strongly suggest that you study the section on Exposure Theory in the original The Art of Bird Photography that is available in soft cover &lt;a href=&quot;http://birdsasart-shop.com/the-art-of-bird-photography-soft-cover/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/font&gt;

As always, i appreciate your blog.

&lt;font id=comreply&gt;I am glad for that.&lt;/font&gt; artie

All the best
Tony]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Artie,<br />
This was extremely helpful! Thank you for the explanation. </p>
<p><font id=comreply>You are most welcome.</font> </p>
<p>Long overdue vacation starts Wednesday, and I&#8217;m going to practice manual-mode photography for much of my trip.</p>
<p><font id=comreply>Enjoy and practice!</font></p>
<p>The trick, as i see it, was knowing your optimal exposure in the first place.</p>
<p><font id=comreply>That is true whether you are in Av or Tv or Manual mode&#8230; And that is why God invented histograms&#8230;</font></p>
<p>Using the meter at the side of the viewfinder in manual mode (I never paid attention to that before) will get me most of the way there, and then use the histogram to get whites just below the right edge. </p>
<p><font id=comreply>Be sure not to get the WHITEs right to the edge; that will give you WHITEs with RGB values in the high 240s or even the dreaded 250s.</font></p>
<p>Taking ISO out of Auto mode allows me to get the EC by adjusting shutter speed and f-stop.</p>
<p><font id=comreply>Good. You should be setting the ISO depending on the conditions (i.e., the light levels) and the shutter speed that you need. </font></p>
<p>Before, I had been switching to Av-mode, using point (sic: spot) metering on a grey spot, memorizing the numbers, switching back to manual, dialing them in, then wondering where the bird went. 🙂</p>
<p><font id=comreply>Even if the bird did not fly that is a bad approach as it will only give you a good exposure for a middle toned subject&#8230; I would strongly suggest that you study the section on Exposure Theory in the original The Art of Bird Photography that is available in soft cover <a href="http://birdsasart-shop.com/the-art-of-bird-photography-soft-cover/" rel="nofollow">here</a>. </font></p>
<p>As always, i appreciate your blog.</p>
<p><font id=comreply>I am glad for that.</font> artie</p>
<p>All the best<br />
Tony</p>
]]></content:encoded>
		
			</item>
		<item>
		<title>
		By: Arthur Morris/BIRDS AS ART		</title>
		<link>https://www.birdsasart-blog.com/baa/2016/07/24/more-on-understanding-exposure-and-working-in-manual-mode/comment-page-1/#comment-1736631</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Arthur Morris/BIRDS AS ART]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 25 Jul 2016 11:48:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.birdsasart-blog.com/?p=34359#comment-1736631</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[In reply to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.birdsasart-blog.com/baa/2016/07/24/more-on-understanding-exposure-and-working-in-manual-mode/comment-page-1/#comment-1736630&quot;&gt;Jon&lt;/a&gt;.

Like you I have no problem with the supposedly &quot;non-native&quot; ISOs. 

Are you using Auto ISO or ISO Safety Shift?

More soon.

a]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In reply to <a href="https://www.birdsasart-blog.com/baa/2016/07/24/more-on-understanding-exposure-and-working-in-manual-mode/comment-page-1/#comment-1736630">Jon</a>.</p>
<p>Like you I have no problem with the supposedly &#8220;non-native&#8221; ISOs. </p>
<p>Are you using Auto ISO or ISO Safety Shift?</p>
<p>More soon.</p>
<p>a</p>
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