<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
	
	>
<channel>
	<title>
	Comments on: Puffling Exposures Questions &#8230;	</title>
	<atom:link href="https://www.birdsasart-blog.com/baa/2017/07/14/puffling-exposures-questions/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>https://www.birdsasart-blog.com/baa/2017/07/14/puffling-exposures-questions/</link>
	<description>The blog of bird photographer Arthur Morris</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Sun, 16 Jul 2017 00:18:53 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<sy:updatePeriod>
	hourly	</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>
	1	</sy:updateFrequency>
	<generator>https://wordpress.org/?v=6.8.3</generator>
	<item>
		<title>
		By: Byron prinzmetal		</title>
		<link>https://www.birdsasart-blog.com/baa/2017/07/14/puffling-exposures-questions/comment-page-1/#comment-1749040</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Byron prinzmetal]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 16 Jul 2017 00:18:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.birdsasart-blog.com/?p=48971#comment-1749040</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Since there is a lot of white and a lot of dark for both images looking at the birds only.  my cameras sensor does not have enough dr to get both so I have to decide what is most important.  I would use manual and reduce the exposure say 1/2 stop for the right image and leave the left alone.  Since this a high contrast situation I would turn both images into black and white and see what I can do in your hated lr photo editing software....bp]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Since there is a lot of white and a lot of dark for both images looking at the birds only.  my cameras sensor does not have enough dr to get both so I have to decide what is most important.  I would use manual and reduce the exposure say 1/2 stop for the right image and leave the left alone.  Since this a high contrast situation I would turn both images into black and white and see what I can do in your hated lr photo editing software&#8230;.bp</p>
]]></content:encoded>
		
			</item>
		<item>
		<title>
		By: Greg		</title>
		<link>https://www.birdsasart-blog.com/baa/2017/07/14/puffling-exposures-questions/comment-page-1/#comment-1749037</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Greg]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 15 Jul 2017 22:36:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.birdsasart-blog.com/?p=48971#comment-1749037</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[In reply to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.birdsasart-blog.com/baa/2017/07/14/puffling-exposures-questions/comment-page-1/#comment-1749028&quot;&gt;Arthur Morris/BIRDS AS ART&lt;/a&gt;.

These changing background situations with a moving subject are always tricky as there is no time to take a test exposure and check for blinkies.
If in a hurry, I would meter any available mid tone in manual (or bright sky +2) and just shoot until I had time to evaluate more carefully. Same for Av but would hit the exposure lock button.
IMHO compensating (accurately!) on the fly takes a lot of experience.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In reply to <a href="https://www.birdsasart-blog.com/baa/2017/07/14/puffling-exposures-questions/comment-page-1/#comment-1749028">Arthur Morris/BIRDS AS ART</a>.</p>
<p>These changing background situations with a moving subject are always tricky as there is no time to take a test exposure and check for blinkies.<br />
If in a hurry, I would meter any available mid tone in manual (or bright sky +2) and just shoot until I had time to evaluate more carefully. Same for Av but would hit the exposure lock button.<br />
IMHO compensating (accurately!) on the fly takes a lot of experience.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
		
			</item>
	</channel>
</rss>
